ICON | Josephine Baker

There are few iconic women that I can think of that were seemingly as passionate, artful, stylish, visionary, and bold as perhaps Josephine Baker was. The more I look in to her biography, the more it boggles the mind how much she accomplished and how steadfast she was about her values. Born into poverty in St. Louis, Baker became a child performer and eventually a domestic servant by age eight. After suffering abuse by her employer, including her hands being burnt after she put too much soap in the laundry, Baker lived on the streets in the slums of St. Louis until her street-corner dancing was discovered and she was recruited to be part of a local vaudeville act. Her talent took her to New York be a cabaret dancer where her star continued to rise. In 1934 she was recognized as the first black woman to star in a major film, Zou-Zou. Ernest Hemingway called her, "the most sensational woman anyone ever saw." Here she is dancing the Charleston in 1925 to get an idea.

Baker was a huge star in France but American audiences refused to believe that a black woman could be so sophisticated, despite being a muse of F. Scott Fitzgerald, Langston Hughes, Chritian Dior and Pablo Picasso. She refused to entertain segregated audiences in the U.S. and by 1937 permanently relocated to France. One of her famous quotes says it all, "I have walked into the palaces of kings and queens and into the houses of presidents. And much more. But I could not walk into a hotel in America and get a cup of coffee, and that made me mad." During World War II, Baker was recruited by French Military Intelligence and worked as a honorable correspondent who collected information she could about German troop locations from officials she met at parties that she would be write in invisible ink on her sheet music! She was adamant about not performing in countries that didn't support Free France or remained neutral, even if it meant giving up major billings.There are plenty of photos of Jopsephine Baker in full glamour and gowns, draped in furs and diamonds, so when I discovered these images of her tomboy side—riding horses, showing sports cars, attending Concours d'Elegance, or spying on Nazis during World War II, I was bowled over. There's just so much more to Baker, so much more than I have the capacity to relay here, but she more than squarely fits in the hall of the Tomboy Style icons. Thank you, Ellie.

SCENE | Fairfield County, Connecticut, 1949.

Photos of Fairfield County residents by Nina Leen for LIFE, 1949.

Nina Leen, one of LIFE Magazine's most prolific photographers, was one of the publication's first camerawomen. A few years ago The New Yorker argued that her photos were intensely layered. An interesting opinion given how bucolic this series looks at first glance.

"Though many of Leen’s assignments were quite pedestrian—her photos have titles like “A Couple Looking for a House to Buy,” “Children Attending a Birthday Party,” and “American Women Playing Bridge”—her images are packed with as much violence, sexual tension, and mystery as any David Lynch film. Her photos wouldn’t look out of place next to Cindy Sherman’s on a gallery wall. But, unlike Lynch or Sherman, Leen found tension in the real world, and her subjects weren’t actors—they were just everyday people living out their lives."—James Pomerantz, The Surreal World of Nina Leen.

UNIFORM | Sabah Shoes


Made by hand in an ancient bazaar in Gazientep Turkey, Sabah shoes have been selling stateside for at least a few years now. But with just a single by-appointment-only shop in New York City, and an ordering system that still goes through email, it's no wonder that the leather loafers have not reached anywhere close to the recognition (I think) they deserve. Made by fifth generation cobblers that hand stitch each pair, they are certainly made with love, and absolutely are crafted to age well and last long. In fact, one of the Sabah makers' last name is Dikici, which translates as stitcher in Turkish—that's how much heritage is piled into a pair of Sabahs. If you're lucky enough to live in New York City, there's a limited supply of stock at the Sabah House which you can visit by making an appointment (info on the website). If you don't, you can order a custom pair ($170), it'll just take eight to 12 weeks for them to arrive, only about one pair is made per day. Worth the wait? I think so. They're an ideal travel shoe that you can dress up, down, and sideways, and the water buffalo soles look like they'll put you squarely in the comfort zone. And just think, in eight weeks or so, we'll all be in the sockless zone as well. To place an order, email orders@sabah.am and they will direct on ordering. I'm so looking forward to mine arriving this Spring.
Thanks for the tip, Knit Wit.